INTRODUCTION
Trango Tower is a 6,286-meter high mountain, which is located north of Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram Mountains range of Pakistan. Trango Tower Expedition Pakistan offers some of the largest cliffs. It is the most challenging rock climbing, every year several expeditions from around the world visit the Karakoram to climb this difficult granite.
Trango Tower climbing expedition’s registration is now open. Trango Towers are a family of Solid rock towers in Pakistan. These towers at the Elevation: 6,286 meter offers some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world. Trango Tower Expedition Pakistan considers being tough due to the combination of altitude, the total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock. All climbing routes are highly technical.
HIGHLIGHTS OF TRANGO TOWER EXPEDITION PAKISTAN
“The Trango Valley must be the most spectacular alpine rock climbing valley in the world,” says Kelly Cordes, an alpinist with first ascents in Alaska, Patagonia, and on the Great Trango Tower. The Great Trango Tower is a highly sought-after alpine prize.
Located in the Baltoro Glacier region of northern Pakistan, Great Trango, the tallest formation in Trango Valley. Trango Tower Expedition Pakistan features 4,396 vertical feet of granite, more than any other face in the world. This spire is over 20,000 feet above sea level. It has combined with Trango Tower (aka Nameless Tower) to the northwest. These formations dominate the horizon on the approach to the larger mountains of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV, and Nanga Parbat.
Best climbed between June and September. The cracks in the compact granite are “like Yosemite with a bit of dirt in the eye,” says Josh Wharton, who, with Cordes, established the southwest ridge of Great Trango. Their 2004 ascent of the Azeem Ridge (VII 5.11X M6 A2) required a 50-mile hike into basecamp and 7,400 vertical feet of climbing over four and a half days.
The pair carried two ropes and 28-pound packs. They climbed without fixing ropes and without a bolt kit. Despite dropping one-third of the rack on the second pitch and running out of water the last two days on the wall, the duo summited in what they would later describe as “disaster style.” Trango Tower Expedition Pakistan is a descent but fascinating rock climbing wall in northern Pakistan.
QUICK INFO
Notable ascents:
1977—South Face; Dennis Hennek, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Galen Rowell
1992—The Grand Voyage (VII 5.10 A4+ WI3); John Middendorf, Xaver Bongard; 18 days
1999—Parallel Worlds (VII 5.11 A4); Alex Lowe, Mark Synnott, Jared Ogden; 28 days
Name of Peak Trango Tower
Elevation 6,286-m (22,623 ft)
Range Karakoram
Location Baltoro Askoli/ Baltistan
Best Period June – September
Base Camp height 4600-M
Ideal Duration 31 days
First Ascent July 1977,1992
Zone Type restricted
Additional information
| Dates | July, June, May |
|---|
Day 1: ISLAMABAD
On arrival transfer the group to the hotel in Islamabad. You will meet your guide in the afternoon at the hotel for a trip briefing and gear check.
Day 2: Fly to Skardu or Drive to Chilas from Islamabad
Incase flights are delayed due to weather conditions we will drive 10-12hrs by air-conditioned car to Chilas (480km)/ Besham on the Karakoram highway. Overnight at Shangrila Indus View Hotel or Panorama hotel. Meals :(Incl: Breakfast) O/N Hotel/Guest House
Day 3: Drive to Skardu from Chilas/Besham or in Skardu
Preparations for our Expedition and depending on our time of arrival into
Skardu, there may be time to visit the town and possibly an excursion to Kachura Lake situated at the edge of the valley. Skardu is the regional capital of Baltistan, lying at the edge of a broad floodplain that is the confluence of the Shyok, Indus, and Basha Rivers. Meals: (Incl: Breakfast) O/N Hotel
Day 4: Drive to Askoli
We will travel by jeep with our crew and supplies along the Shigar and Braldu valleys to Askole. Villages in Shigar have changed little in over five hundred years; farms with fields of barley, wheat, and vegetables surrounded by stone walls and stands of poplar, willow, and apricot trees. The apricot is a very important crop in the north, having a multitude of uses for the Balti and Hunzakut people. Villagers greet us as we pass through on the rugged dirt and stone road that leads to Baltoro. As we approach, the landscapes become desert-like, and once within the sheer valley of the Braldu, it is necessary to cross the river several times by suspension bridges. At various points, the road may have collapsed due to erosion and we will transfer the gear across on foot to a vehicle on the other side. Meals: (Incl: B-L-D) O/N Camping.
Day 05 Askole – jhola:
Jhola (3200m) Start 2-3 hours walk cross wasteland and traverse Biafo Glacier a tortured Ocean of moving Boulders and crevasses 2 km wide. Night in camp
Day 06 Jhola – Paiyu:
Paiyu (3600m) Start on a relatively easy trail for 3-4 hrs. Night in camp.
Day 07 Paiyu – Base camp:
Base Camp (4900m)7-8 hours slightly easy walk, with spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama, including Muztagh Tower, GasherbrumIV, Mitre Peak, and the mighty K-2.
Day 8: Rest Day at Base Camp
A day to get established at base camp and to sort out personal and group equipment. We prepare for the next day’s climb. Meals: (Incl: B-L-D) O/N Camping
Day 9 to 24: Trango Tower Ascent
We have up to 30 days to climb the peak. Three camps will be established above BC: Initially, gear needs to be moved up the mountain to form our camps as well as the route opened. A steady shuttle approach works the most effectively, with everyone contributing to achieving these two goals
Day 25: Depart Base Camp to Jula
Together with our staff, we will dismantle the base camp and retrace the trekking trail down the Baltoro Glacier. Meals: (Incl: B-L-D) O/N Camping
Day 26: Depart Base Camp to Jula
The second day of the walkout from Base Camp. A further 6-8 hrs walk will take us to Askoli village where we camp. Meals: (Incl: B-L-D) O/N Camping
Day 27: Drive to Skardu
An early start from
Askoli will enable us to reach Skardu in time for lunch and spend a relaxing afternoon at the Hotel. Meals: (Incl: B-L-D) O/N Camping
Day 28 Skardu – Islamabad/Chilas:
Islamabad/Chilas Fly to Islamabad (Subject to weather conditions). In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 29 Islamabad:
Leisure day at Islamabad, In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad, stay in the hotel.
Day 30 Islamabad:
Islamabad Debriefing, Night in hotel.
Day 31 Islamabad:
Fly out. Transfer to the airport for your return flight home.
Tour Reviews
The Trango Tower Expedition with Visit in Pakistan Tours was an exhilarating adventure that I will never forget. The climb was challenging but the breathtaking views of the surrounding Karakoram peaks made it all worth it. The guides and support staff were experienced and knowledgeable, and they made sure we were well-prepared and safe throughout the expedition. The campsite locations were beautiful and the food provided was delicious and nutritious, making the overall experience even more enjoyable. I highly recommend the Trango Tower Expedition with Visit in Pakistan Tours to anyone looking for a thrilling and unforgettable climb in the Karakoram range.
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